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Lifting steeringrack

When you change the rideheight of the car, the height of the steeringrack relative to the wheels changes. The steeringrack is stationary, but the steeringarms go up. This gives the car more bumpsteer. To compensate for this you can lift the steeringrack.

First you have to allow for some flexibility in the steerincolumn so the steeringrack can acutally go up. Loosen one of the bolts. An airtool is very handy for this. And you need to be able to bend yourself a little.

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Jack the side of the car up where you'll start lifting the steeringrack. Remove the front wheel.

Loosen the bolts which hold the steeringrack in place. Two at the drivers side and two at the passenger side. It saves some problems if you use a rattle with enough extentions. This way you don't need to go all the way into the footwell.

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Loosen the bolts at both sides, but only remove them at one side.

To remove the plate the bolts go through, remove the poprivot at the bottom of the plate. When this is out the plate can be removed.

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This is the old plate and the new plate. You can see that the right one (the new one) has the holes a bit higher. You can also see that on the old one the bolts were tightend using way too much torque.

After removing the old plate, the new plate has to be poprivoted in place. After that the bolts can be put back in, but don't fully tighten them yet. This can best be done with two people. The first one tries to get the bolts in, the second can lift the steeringrack.
Now do the same at the other side.

Afther both plates have been replaced, you can tighten the 4 bolts. The M10's take 45Nm and the M8's 27Nm. As the last step, retighten the bolt on the steering column.